White grapes varieties

Variety: Malvasia di Candia e del Lazio

Characteristics: The name Malvasia is often associated with numerous grape varieties that shared the ability to produce sweet and aromatic whines, generally characterised by sensory notes that were highly appreciated and hence more easily tradable in Medieval times. Nowadays, we still have many varieties called Malvasia (currently, the Malvasia varieties cultivated in Italy are as many as 18) and they are often found in regions with a coastline on the Mediterranean Sea; however, due to their substantial genetic differences, they cannot be defined as a varietal family. From a genetic perspective, Malvasia di Candia, or Malvasia Rossa, is very close to Garganega, and is therefore a very productive and moderately aromatic variety. The synonym Malvasia Rossa (red Malvasia) is due to the reddish colour of the young buds. It produces rather light wines with an aroma of citrus fruit and green apple. It gives its best when young as it is not characterised by an enormous evolution potential.

From a sensory perspective, Malvasia del Lazio or Malvasia Puntinata is much more interesting as it results from a natural cross between Moscato di Alessandria (Zibibbo) and Schiava Grossa. The adjective “puntinata” (dotted) derives from the tiny black spots on the skins of the berries. It is a late variety, very sensitive to diseases and subject to shedding; being a medium-vigour vine, it prefers low-production training systems.

Wines they are used for: Marino DOC Superiore, Frascati DOC, Castelli romani DOC Bianco, Roma DOC Bianco.

Variety: Trebbiano toscano

Characteristics: This is a very widespread variety, with numerous synonyms adopted throughout Italy, whether official or not, often linked to the cultivation area. Despite the lack of certainty, a Tuscan origin seems very likely. In Andrea Bacci’s famous “De Naturali Vinorum Historia”, Trebbiano is mentioned several times as originating from the ancient northern Etruria and certainly as the most widespread variety in that area.

As a consequence of the Avignon Papacy, the variety immigrated to France, moving from one area to another until it finally settled in the department of Charente, where it still is used in the production of Cognac. Indeed, contrary to what one might imagine, on a worldwide scale Trebbiano is much more present in France (about 75%) than in Italy (about 20%). It is a variety characterized by high vigour, which generally produces numerous fertile side shoots. It shows good grafting compatibility and ensures normal resistance to common vine parasites. It produces moderately aromatic wines with good concentration and structure.

Wines it is used for: Marino DOC Superiore, Frascati DOC.

Variety: Bombino bianco or Bonvino

Characteristics: This is one of the most common white grapes in southern Italy, particularly in Puglia, but also in Emilia Romagna, Lazio, Marche and Abruzzo. Among its synonyms, Pagadebit and Straccia Cambiale (i.e., debt payer and promissory note shredder) used in Emilia Romagna clearly hint at its convenience, as it is a high-yielding variety. In Lazio it is called Bonvino (good wine). Wines produced using these grapes from high-yielding vineyards are, on the average, not very aromatic, but low yields and accurate vinification can give high-quality, durable wines. It is a late variety, quite common in Lazio and in other southern Italian regions.

The bunches are of medium size, conical, often winged and loose. The berries are large, with medium-thick and pruinose skin, yellowish in colour. The medium-vigour vines prefer short pruning and guarantee constant and abundant yields, while the fertility of the side shoots is very poor. A slightly early harvest produces delicately scented and particularly long-lived wines. This variety is also an excellent base for sparkling wines.

Wines it is used for: Marino DOC Superiore, Roma DOC Bianco.

Variety: Bellone

Characteristics: A very versatile variety, common in Lazio, especially in the provinces of Rome and Latina. It is grown in the areas stretching from the Castelli Romani to the Lepini Mountains, extending towards the seashore. Bellone is a grape variety of ancient origins, widespread in the area of the Castelli Romani ever since Roman times. It is known under various other names, one of which is Cacchione.

The name Bellone (the big, beautiful one) was used to identify a variety with bigger bunches, but with characteristics analogous to the “Belli” (the beautiful ones), a very common family of vines in Lazio (from where the name probably originates). The bunches are quite big, conical-cylindrical in shape, often winged, compact and tight. The Bellone variety requires medium-expansion training systems and medium or short pruning. The most suitable soils are those of volcanic origin. Bellone is a high-vigour variety and resists well to droughty periods, guaranteeing quality and balance. It is usually harvested in the first weeks of October. Wines produced with Bellone grapes are to be drunk young and have a deep yellow colour with golden hues. They have an intense, fruity scent with notes of citrus fruit, yellow peach, hawthorn, a slight mineral accent and a characteristic, slightly bitter finish.

Wines it is used for: Marino DOC Superiore.

Variety: Greco bianco

Characteristics: Numerous varieties in Italy have the root word Greco (Greek) in their name. Despite the numerous ancient documents that attributed the Greco name to the grape varieties that reached Italy from Greece, it is much more likely that the name Greco spread because of commercial reasons, as is the case for the name Malvasia.

In particular, the Greco Bianco variety, also present in Calabria and Basilicata, plays a role of some importance in Lazio where it contributes to the production of the two DOCGs: Frascati Superiore and Cannellino di Frascati.

Wines it is used for: Frascati DOC.

Variety: Vermentino

Characteristics: Vermentino is certainly one of the varieties that in recent years have enjoyed the greatest commercial success. For this reason, planting has significantly increased, even outside the areas where it was traditionally grown. It also represents the perfect combination of good viticultural productivity, great freshness and sapidity in the glass, and a remarkable oenological versatility. Lazio is particularly suitable for the cultivation of Vermentino by virtue of the climatic and pedological characteristics of the region.

Indeed, Vermentino best expresses itself in areas that ensure a good sunny exposure, volcanic soil rich in minerals, and a dry and windy climate. Among the various existing biotypes, the one that offers the best guarantees in terms of quality is certainly the less vigorous Vermentino, with looser, golden-yellow bunches. Genetically it is a neutral variety, but the wines it produces are often very aromatic, with scents reminiscent of Moscato (rose, orange and sage), especially if the grapes are vinified when very ripe and are subjected to winemaking techniques like cryomaceration.

Wines it is used for: Lazio IGT Vermentino.

Red grape varieties

Variety: Sangiovese

Characteristics: Sangiovese is the most widespread red grape variety in Italy. It is a huge extension that involves many Italian regions and a great number of wines under IG (Geographical Indication) and DO (Designation of Origin) classification. Sangiovese is the Italian autochthonous variety par excellence, even if the meaning of autochthony should be revised. Indeed, the place where a grape variety has its origins is not necessarily where it best expresses its genetic potential.

Sangiovese stems from varieties from Campania and Calabria, but Tuscany is the region where its genetic potential is expressed to the fullest. From this perspective, the word autochthonous progressively loses its significance. It is no longer referable to a place, but rather to a time when the variety manifests itself in an optimal way. Autochthonous is thus the place where the variety gives its best. In Lazio, we find it in many designations in the Castelli Romani area. It is a late-ripening variety, but budburst occurs early so the risk of damage from spring frosts is greater. More than other varieties, Sangiovese is affected by the crop load of each single vine. For this reason, the production of an excellent Sangiovese requires that special attention is paid to the number of buds left after winter pruning and, even more importantly, to canopy management, with a selective and rigorous green pruning that includes topping, leaf removal, shoot and cluster thinning. Wines produced with Sangiovese are often harsh in their first year of life but have a rare ageing potential, progressively improving their olfactory and gustatory sensations.

Wines it is used for: Castelli romani DOC Rosso and Rosé, Roma DOC Rosso.

Variety: Montepulciano

Characteristics: Like Sangiovese, Montepulciano has always been considered one of the great red grape varieties of central-southern Italy. Wines made with Montepulciano grapes are known and appreciated worldwide. The reference markets are Germany, the United States, Canada and Northern Europe.

Montepulciano is a very versatile grape variety, found in many market segments ranging from everyday wines to wines with greater structure and an enormous evolutionary potential in the bottle. It has unique characteristics in that the wine in the glass is never lost in dilution despite the abundant yields in the vineyard. Indeed, it always has a rich, intense, deep and long-lasting ruby-red colour, with an intoxicating and persuasive scent of red fruit. The tannins are always smooth and never astringent. In short, it is excellent for the production of varietal wines but also perfect for blending with other varieties, like in Castelli romani Rosso and Roma Rosso. Contrary to what one might expect, Montepulciano was the red grape variety of reference of the Castelli Romani, in the period prior to the arrival of phylloxera.

Wines it is used for: Castelli romani DOC Rosso, Roma DOC Rosso.

Variety: Merlot

Characteristics: Like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot is one of the most widespread varieties in the world, essentially due to a certain stability of its olfactory and gustatory characteristics, regardless of the cultivation zones.

This consistency of sensory attributes makes it easily recognisable and therefore more appreciated by consumers among the numerous varieties available on the market. Merlot is also very versatile as it not only achieves splendid results in the young, fresh and fruity version, but also guarantees top quality when the wine matures in wood. Bunches are always very loose due to the heavy shedding of the flowers during the flowering stage. This aspect results from the genetics of the variety and guarantees more air circulation inside the bunch, hence a healthier fruit, which is always a great gift in humid environments. Moreover, thanks to the small berries, the skin to pulp ratio is high and this is the best guarantee for intensely coloured and fragrant wines. From an oenological perspective, it is important to point out that Merlot is a variety that must be harvested when exactly ripe; a few days later the grapes tend to dry quickly and the wine in the glass will reveal the less delicate and elegant scent of jammy red fruit.

Wines it is used for: Castelli romani DOC Rosso, Lazio IGT Merlot.

Variety: Cesanese

Characteristics: The variety, or rather the varieties of the Cesanese family are grown in numerous areas in Lazio. The term Cesanese was coined in ancient Roman times as the variety was cultivated in the caesae, that is in “places with felled trees”. From an ampelographic perspective, it is a medium-late, vigorous variety, with thick, pruinouse skin. It prefers short pruning and medium-expansion training systems.

Cesanese is quite sensitive to the main cryptogams and in particular to downy mildew, and is subject to shedding. Cesanese Comune distinguishes itself for its larger bunches (average weight of 280-330 g), while Cesanese di Affile is smaller in size (bunches weigh 180-240 g on average) and considered as the most exquisite. Traditionally, Cesanese wine was known and identified as a sweet wine, suitable for drinking the year following the harvest. Given the genetic characteristics of the variety, modern vinification provides for the use of particularly gentle and delicate crushing and pressing equipment, punch-downs and pump-overs especially in the early stages of alcoholic fermentation and, above all, short maceration and early racking. The wine thus obtained has an inviting ruby-red colour, which precociously turns to garnet with maturity, and a characteristic scent reminiscent of ripe sour cherries. It is full-bodied and smooth in the mouth, with a slight almond finish. It is traditionally paired with chestnuts when young, with lamb when it reaches “middle age” and with important dishes of game and red meat when fully mature.

Wines it is used for: Lazio IGT Cesanese.

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